Do's and Don't of working with Oasis?

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Flore

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Apr 3, 2008
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Was just reading a thread about hydrangea in oasis which lead me to a question I have been having about working with oasis in general, regardless of the flower type.
Would anyone like to share some of their do's and don'ts about working with oasis?
 
Your kids can carve "an o-ase" (that's the singular in kidspeak) into cool stuff!
And. . . even grown men can't resist putting their fingerprints in it if it's sitting on your worktable!
 
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After you soak your oasis.......If you are concerned about oasis dust cloggin stems.....it does not hurt to let cold water run over the soaked brick for a minute or two to rinse away the dust.

Also, If you glue your oasis/aquafoam, other fresh floral foams into a container......either let the entire container and foam float soak or add water FROM THE SIDE.......DO not pour water on top of the foam.....You will end up with air-pockets.
 
Ok, so here's some advice for ya......

The holes go DOWN if you float your oasis (which is the way you are suppose to use oasis!) It literally take 30 seconds or less for INSTANT oasis to fully soak up water when you float it holes side DOWN.

If you insist on Pan gluing your dry oasis in your container before wetting it, be sure the holes are to the side, NOT on top or bottom.

Never ever plunge Oasis.

Sahara is NOT the same as Oasis. Yes, I actually worked for someone who tried to tell me Sahara and Oasis was the same.

If you need to glue Dry oasis, or Sahara for that matter, in the bottom of a glass or crystal container, FIRST put down strips of duct tape in the bottom of the container, Then glue your foam to that. That way after the arrangement is done and over with, OR if the container is expensive, you do not harm the container. you just pull off the foam and remove the tape, easy breezy!
Please, no silly comments of "why not just tape in the oasis". My answer to that is "because sometimes we need a different technique"

Sometimes when you need to slow down the evaporation time of a spray bar you can wrap the bar in plastic wrap, like reynolds cling wrap. Then just poke your flowers into the bar through the wrap.

Trim the corners from your oasis, You don't have to use so much greens when you trim it up.

That's all I can think of for now.
 
I use the Oasis without holes for bigger stemmed flowers (not the quick soaking kind).

It's much easier to cut after soaked, and less dust.

In a pinch once, MOB wanted arrangements for wedding candleabra's, right before the wedding...I used plastic baggies with foam and it worked great and no drips.
 
And when you DO get the dust in your eyes ( and you will) just close the eyes, do not rub. The eye will clear the dust to the side in a miniute or two with no rubbing. I try to splash water on my face to wash out the eyelashes before reopening if possible too.:boggles:
 
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Our favorite is Ludwig Thirsty Foam. At Southern Retail, I saw the Ludwig staff insert handle of a broom into a block of foam, and it stayed upright throughout the 3-day event. The foam can be re-soaked also, at least once.
 
Shannon is correct, most floral foams have instructions printed on the boxes that tell you how best to soak the particular brand of foam.....and most do tell you to soak the foam holes down/logo side up.

I have not yet used Ludwig brands.......so I cannot offer any tips on that.......but I actually prefer to use Syndicate Sales Aquafoam Instant Deluxe brand over Smithers-Oasis Instant Deluxe brand. I find the Aquafoam to be less dusty on the whole, a firmer texture, and less apt to split with insertions of thicker stem flowers......such as a heliconia or a ginger.
 
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After attending many classes from Floralife, I know they tell you to soak the oasis with the hole up. The capilaries run up and down. If you do it sideways, the water runs out faster. Also, it is designed for easier insertion when you do the hole up and down.

I, personally prefer the standard oasis. The Instant soaks up quickly, but, also loses the water quickly. This is even more important when using them for standing easels. Do a test on which one hold up best in this situation.

It is very important to make sure each stem is inserted under the water line.. I think this is one of the worst things most designers fail on.
As long as the design looks good to most designers , they don't give a rip if the flower is hydrated.

Carol Bice
 
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